{"id":250,"date":"2014-07-26T12:42:05","date_gmt":"2014-07-26T16:42:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/?p=250"},"modified":"2014-10-07T12:09:24","modified_gmt":"2014-10-07T16:09:24","slug":"july-26-edvard-grieg-fantoff-stave-church","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/july-26-edvard-grieg-fantoff-stave-church\/","title":{"rendered":"July 26: Disappointing Edvard Grieg Excursion"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In Bergen, I was really looking forward to the excursion to Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg&#8217;s house by a lake. After all, Grieg is one of Norway&#8217;s most famous composers and we were promised a concert of his music on location. On the way there, we were to visit the Fantoft Stave church, an exact replica of an 1150\u00a0original that burned down in 1993.<\/p>\n<p>So many of our excursions have been really delightful, so I hoped to enjoy this one, too.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1045\" style=\"width: 475px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264955-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1045\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264955-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Edvard Grieg Statue at Troldhaugen\" width=\"465\" height=\"620\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1045\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264955-edit.jpg 465w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264955-edit-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1045\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edvard Grieg Statue at Troldhaugen<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The day was brutally hot, and my walking was significantly worse despite an acupuncture treatment on the ship the day before in hopes it would help.<\/p>\n<p>The first stop was the Fantoft Stave church, which took us on a gravel path through the woods. Most of the people on the tour could barely walk, so I felt right at home. The church has a very small footprint, but it is very tall, with pagan dragons carved into the eaves, the entire wooden exterior coated in tar.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_196\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264948-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-196\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264948-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Fantoft Stave Church\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-full wp-image-196\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264948-edit.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264948-edit-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-196\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fantoft Stave Church<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The hard part was that there were about four tour groups crowded around the tiny space, and it was almost impossible to take a picture or to get a real sense of the place.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1048\" style=\"width: 475px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264931-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1048\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264931-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Interior of the Fantoft Stave Church\" width=\"465\" height=\"620\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264931-edit.jpg 465w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264931-edit-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1048\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior of the Fantoft Stave Church<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The next stop took us to Troldhaugen, again down a gravel walk. The first disappointment was that the roof of the Grieg house was under construction, with metal scaffolding all around, and a gauze covering around the outside with a transparent\u00a0image of the house.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_197\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264960-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-197\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264960-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Troldhaugen Wrapped in Gauze\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-full wp-image-197\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264960-edit.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264960-edit-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-197\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troldhaugen Wrapped in Gauze<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Our tour guide, a pleasant Japanese woman with a very faint voice, led us though the three tiny rooms, speaking English extremely slowly. Despite the heat, the entire tour group was crowded into a single room at time, and the tour seemed to take forever, with almost no useful information imparted at all.<\/p>\n<p>The setting by Lake Nordass was lovely, and I enjoyed a snack in the very modern caf\u00e9 in the museum. <\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1053\" style=\"width: 475px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264961-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1053\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264961-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Troldhaugen Museum Lunch\" width=\"465\" height=\"620\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1053\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264961-edit.jpg 465w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264961-edit-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1053\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troldhaugen Museum Lunch<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Finally, we gathered for the concert in the next-door Troldsalen concert hall. The roof is stepped down toward the lake, with bright green sod on each layer.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1052\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264956-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1052\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264956-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Troldsalen Concert Hall\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1052\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264956-edit.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264956-edit-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1052\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troldsalen Concert Hall<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Inside, the building is strikingly modern, with a lovely view of the lake behind the pianist.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_198\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264962-edit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-198\" src=\"http:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264962-edit.jpg\" alt=\"Troldsalen Concert Hall with Nordass Lake View\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-full wp-image-198\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264962-edit.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/P7264962-edit-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-198\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troldsalen Concert Hall with Nordass Lake View<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The pianist wore a traditional Norwegian costume and played very well. Too bad someone&#8217;s hearing aid was squealing, two of the women were fanning themselves with their crinkly programs, and a man at the back was noisily clicking photographs, even though we had been asked not to.<\/p>\n<p>The tour\u00a0was a little disappointing, but I am glad to say I have been there. I am surprised that Holland America (or someone) had not warned us about the construction on the house ahead of time. At least I would have been prepared.<\/p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 0.85em;\">Photos \u00a9 2014 <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pjgardner.com\/\" title=\"P.J.'s home page\">P.J. Gardner<\/a>. All rights reserved.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In Bergen, I was really looking forward to the excursion to Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg&#8217;s house by a lake. After all, Grieg is one of Norway&#8217;s most famous composers and we were promised a concert of his music on location. On &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/july-26-edvard-grieg-fantoff-stave-church\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-250","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog","category-cruise"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=250"}],"version-history":[{"count":30,"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1065,"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250\/revisions\/1065"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=250"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=250"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pjgardner.com\/travel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=250"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}