Voyage of the Vikings

When we flew into Reykjavík on Monday, the weather was beautiful.  I saw Surtsey from the plane.  Surtsey is a new island, created by a volcanic eruption in 1963.  I have always been fascinated by the fact there is land on earth that was not created in its first seven days, and is even younger than me!

Map of Iceland at City Hall Created of Layered Paper

Map of Iceland at Keflavík Airport Created with Icelandic Products

Although the weather forecast promised a beautiful Tuesday as well, it was gray when we woke up.

P.J. Photographing an Icelandic Sculpture in Reykjavík (by Arjan Post)

My idea was to just walk around town, but P.J protested because she no longer walks well. Since we had not rented a car, she proposed we do a Golden Circle bus tour.  I had hoped that, after our cruise, I would not have to be herded around like a sheep any more, but I relented.  That turned out to be a very good move (thank you, P.J!).

In Reykjavík it remained gray all day, even drizzly, but as soon as the bus drove east over the hills, it turned out to be a beautiful day there!  Moreover, our trip leader was a real kick.  She was “made in Japan”, as she announced, married to an Icelandic husband and in Iceland for fifteen years.  She spoke English very slowly and haltingly, but unlike the charming French trip leader in Stavanger who talked up a blue streak but knew very little about Norway, this woman was full of knowledge about Icelandic history, politics, women, and geology, and she had a great, dry sense of humor.

The tour went past a rift valley, a UNESCO National Park where you could stand on (and walk off) the edge of the North American geologic plate.

The Rift Valley at Þingvellir National Park

Next we went to an impressive waterfall, Gullfoss, more impressive than the Godafoss we had seen in Northern Iceland.

The Double Cascade of Gullfoss (Golden Waterfall)

• Watch Arjan’s Gullfoss Video (MP4, 46.98 MB, 0:23 sec)

And finally, the tour took us to a geyser area. The Geysir geyser, which gave its name as a noun to almost every other language, is now dormant. Its successor is named Strokkur.  It was in a good mood when we came by and erupted several times, although the duration of the eruptions was very short.

Strokkur Geyser in Action

Distant View of the Langjökull Glacier

Famous Icelandic Horses

Our bus driver was a bit grumpy to start.  But he livened up after we got to talk to him at one of the stops (we were in the front seats). We talked about the volcano that is rumbling there right now, which is big news in Iceland.  He proceeded to make two unscheduled side trips, one past a geothermal power plant. On the other one, a trip to a smaller waterfall, we ran into a movie shoot and were temporarily stopped.

We got back late to Reykjavík, but not too late to dine in one of the better restaurants we remembered from when we were there three years ago.  All in all, a great day!  Dinner the previous night, in our hotel, was one of the best of our entire trip.  Not cheap, but very good.

Hótel Reykjavík Centrum and Fjalakötturinn Restaurant

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner & Arjan Post. All rights reserved.
Video © 2014 Arjan Post. All rights reserved.

Our main UK destination was Devon, but I could not resist taking a quick look at Wales on our way to Manchester Airport to fly to Iceland. So our Wales visit had to be “American style”: very quick! The first part of the car trip to Bristol was a traffic nightmare. There had been an accident on the motorway (like an American Interstate), plus it was Saturday morning and a lot of Brits were on the road heading for various weekend destinations.

After passing Bristol into Wales, the traffic died and at times the roads and the landscape became almost desolate. It was very striking, after leaving the manicured countryside of Devon, that Wales is much wilder and more sparsely populated. It resembles Northern New England. The mountains are geologically related, after all!

Llety Ciero Country Guest House, Our Lodging in Wales

P.J. Photographing the River Dovey in Wales (by Arjan Post)

We spent the night near Aberystwyth, a charming university town with a coastal boulevard that still has a nineteen-twenties/thirties feel. It may have seen better days economically. We had dinner in a restaurant with a view over the wild Irish Sea, whipped up by the residual winds from the remains of ex-hurricane Bertha which still hung around over Europe.

Aberystwyth by Day

Aberystwyth by Night

On Sunday we drove through beautiful Snowdonia National Park, in Northwest Wales, towards Manchester Airport.  Someone from our hotel had recommended an especially scenic route, and she was right!

Beautiful Snowdonia National Park

Steep Mountain Road in Snowdonia National Park

We had a simple lunch in Trawsfynydd, in a Welsh pub called The Cross Foxes.

Trawsfynydd, Northern Wales

We now know that “araf” means “slow” in  Welsh.

Quiet Life in Trawsfynydd

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner & Arjan Post. All rights reserved.

Arjan went on a hike on the Devon South Coast at Hope Cove. I couldn’t walk that much, so I took the car up to the heights and did my own walking tour with my camera. It’s a beautiful place. I even spotted Arjan from afar a couple of times, but he didn’t see me!

Inner Harbor at Hope Cove

Devonian Fields

Devonian Sheep (by Arjan Post)

View Towards Outer Hope

High Promontory on the South Devon Heritage Coast Trail

Arjan Spotted from Afar

Undulating Cliffs near Bolberry Down

Bolberry (by Arjan Post)

Rapid Return of the Tide at Hope Cove

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner & Arjan Post. All rights reserved.

On the day with the worst weather, we decided to go do a “town thing” and went to Plymouth, from where the Pilgrims once sailed to the new world. Plymouth is a beautiful town with lots of non-Pilgrim history as well, going all the way back to the Bronze Age. It has a remarkable and beautiful natural harbor.

Historic Plymouth Harbour

Sir Francis Drake was its most famous citizen. He was knighted for circumnavigating the world. He also sailed on a slaver, but I don’t think he was knighted for that.

Sir Francis Drake and Royal Naval Obelisk

Smeaton’s Tower at Hoe Park

New Street in Old Plymouth (the Barbican)

We were incredibly lucky to find on-street parking right near the Mayflower monument. Like Plymouth Rock, in Massachusetts, the Mayflower Steps, from where the Mayflower departed, is make-believe. The originals no longer exist.

Phony Pilgrim Steps

We had tea in the Strand Tea Rooms.

Strand Tea Rooms

Plymouth Gin Distillery, Since 1793

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.

Arjan: We made an afternoon trip to Dartmoor National Park. The English moors have a character all their own. We had afternoon tea at the Two Bridges Hotel.  We kind of got into an afternoon tea habit in England.  When in Rome… England….

Moors at Dartmoor National Park

Dartmoor Ponies

Flora of the Upper Heathland

Dartmoor Long Vista

Two Bridges Hotel, Perfect for Tea

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.

Next we visited friends, who live in a house that was converted from a barn that used to belong to the manor house just up the road.

Converted Venton Barn

Alie and John Whitaker with Arjan in Dartington

Alie, P.J., and Arjan at Venton Barn (photo by John Whitaker)

The barn house had a separate flat with an independent entrance, which became our quarters for the next five nights.

Our “Granny Flat”

Under the Eaves

Creative Plumbing

P.J misses her black cat, Luna, while we are on our trip.  But Jessie dropped by regularly to make up for lost time with Luna.

Jessie

We were located near Dartington and Totnes.  Totnes bills itself as the alternative capital of England.  It is a lively place, populated by ex-hippies, some maybe not so “ex”.  It strives to be self-sufficient.  If you do not grow at least some of your own organic food, do not believe in homeopathic medicine, or drive a big car, you clearly do not belong here.

One night we dined at Dartington Hall, a picturesque medieval retreat.  Unfortunately, some of the meals we enjoyed in less medieval places around Totnes were more enjoyable.

Dartington Hall

Large cars are very impractical in Devon.  Even some main roads are not always wide enough for two cars from opposite directions to pass.  If you do encounter a bus or tractor, things come to a screeching halt and you may have to back up while everyone inches past each other.  Nevertheless, the default speed limit is 60 mph, impossible to attain (even for me), but many English motorists give it a good try.  Not many accidents here as a result of people dozing while driving!

A highway in Devon— speed limit 60 mph.

A Numbered Route in Devon

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.

It was a relief to escape the London crowds on Sunday, when we rented a car at Heathrow airport.  After a rainy start, courtesy of ex-hurricane Bertha who visited England that day, we went towards the English south coast.  The weather was stormy, with sunny spells alternating with showers.  That made for beautiful seascapes.

English Channel after Bertha

Upon reaching the coast there were people kite surfing, essentially parasailing with a surfboard.  I had never seen that before.  Because of Bertha’s wind, they went very, very fast.  It looked very exciting.  I guess I was born too early!

Kite Surfing after Hurricane Bertha

• Watch Arjan’s English Channel Video (MP4, 35.49 MB, 0:17 sec)

That evening we dined in a nice restaurant with a view over Christchurch Harbour, a bay with whitecaps.

Choppy Christchurch Harbour

The next day, on our way to Devon, we traveled along the south coast of Dorset through a picturesque landscape with spectacular vistas of the cliffs on the English Channel, alternating with medieval villages in the lovely English countryside.

St. Catherine’s Chapel and the Fleet on the Dorset Jurassic Coast

Picturesque Abbotsbury Village

Dorset Rural Byway

The English are very accommodating when you try to get into a restaurant.  In the US when it is very busy, they may tell you “we are all booked” and then gently stare you out of the establishment.  In England, they tell you “we are all booked”, pause a bit, and then say, “But if you don’t mind waiting, our service is very slow, but we can probably fit you in somehow”.  Meanwhile, you can have a drink.  Part of the pub culture, there’s always room for more.

Cott Inn in Totnes, Licensed Since 1320 A.D.

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.
Video © 2014 Arjan Post. All rights reserved.

Big Ben

Doubledecker Bus on the Kingsway

London was incredibly crowded.  You had to stand in line everywhere or shuffle in a crowd.  We had three nights and two days planned.  On our first day we went to the British Museum, within walking distance from our hotel.  We had both been there before, but you can spend a week there and never see the same thing twice.  The place is enormous and always interesting, and still free, although they ask for a 5-pound donation.  We walked primarily through exhibitions relating to British history.

British Museum Rotunda

Sutton Hoo Burial Helmet

Our second day, the weather was beautiful.  There was a big bicycle event that day.  A long course had been cordoned off throughout the city center.

Houses of Parliament, Winchester Palace

Family-Friendly FreeCycle Event in the 2014 RideLondon Festival

When we surfaced from the tube at Westminster, we found the bridge closed to traffic and difficult to reach because the bicycle course was in the way.   You could only cross at limited places.   Just shuffling was possible, and if we ever lost each other, we might never meet again!

The London Eye on the Thames

World War I Memorial at the Tower of London

We decided to try for the Tower of London.  There is a project underway to put 888,246 blood-red ceramic poppies on the lawn, one for each World War I victim of the British Commonwealth.  That war started 100 years ago on July 28.  That puts today’s troubles into perspective.

Alas, at the Tower of London, it was equally impossibly crowded, so on to Hyde Park where they were demonstrating against Israel. Then we walked to Buckingham Palace, where we ran into the bicycle course again.  Never again will I visit London in the peak season!

Queen Victoria Memorial at Buckingham Palace

The food in London was excellent, no bad experience yet— also later outside London.  Quite a change from thirty years ago!

Gourmet Vegetarian Breakfast at Bill’s Restaurant in Holborn

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.

Groningen Railway Station, Northeast Corner of the Netherlands

Next day we traveled from Groningen, in northeast Holland, to London by train.

We had to change trains twice, once in Rotterdam with only a 13-minute connection, and again in Brussels on the Eurostar.  We were concerned about the tight schedule and our voluminous luggage, besides the possibility that any train delay might cause us to miss the Eurostar, so we took an early train from Groningen.  That train was perfectly on time and we had no trouble making our connection in Rotterdam’s brand new train station with lots of elevators.

Theoretically we now had lots of time to make our connection in Brussels.  But trouble started as we crossed into Belgium.  Our train went slower and slower and finally came to a halt in a small train station due to “technical problems with the locomotive”.  Apparently, these things have been designed by Microsoft, because they made an announcement that the locomotive had to be rebooted, before we were on our way again, arriving in Brussels 30 minutes late.

Because we had taken an early train from our starting point in the morning, we thought we had plenty of time and had a quick lunch in the Brussels train station.  Then we went to the Eurostar train in plenty of time, or so we thought.

However, once there, we had to go through British customs.  No problem for me, with my European Union passport, but they made P.J stand in another line and fill out an entry form.  That line came to a near complete halt because a person ahead of her apparently had an immigration problem.  The EU passport line had long since dissolved, until, with only 10 to 15 minutes to spare (including having our luggage scanned and inspected), the other customs officers finally decided to help out.

We had to hurry to make it, and finally sank in our seats, sweaty and hot, shortly before the train’s departure.

200-mph Eurostar Train, Splattered with Mud

Brussels to London by train takes two hours at speeds up to 200 mph.  When we were paralleling expressways, it looked like cars were going backwards.

St. Pancras Railway Station, London

Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.