In Bergen, I was really looking forward to the excursion to Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s house by a lake. After all, Grieg is one of Norway’s most famous composers and we were promised a concert of his music on location. On the way there, we were to visit the Fantoft Stave church, an exact replica of an 1150 original that burned down in 1993.
So many of our excursions have been really delightful, so I hoped to enjoy this one, too.
Edvard Grieg Statue at Troldhaugen
The day was brutally hot, and my walking was significantly worse despite an acupuncture treatment on the ship the day before in hopes it would help.
The first stop was the Fantoft Stave church, which took us on a gravel path through the woods. Most of the people on the tour could barely walk, so I felt right at home. The church has a very small footprint, but it is very tall, with pagan dragons carved into the eaves, the entire wooden exterior coated in tar.
Fantoft Stave Church
The hard part was that there were about four tour groups crowded around the tiny space, and it was almost impossible to take a picture or to get a real sense of the place.
Interior of the Fantoft Stave Church
The next stop took us to Troldhaugen, again down a gravel walk. The first disappointment was that the roof of the Grieg house was under construction, with metal scaffolding all around, and a gauze covering around the outside with a transparent image of the house.
Troldhaugen Wrapped in Gauze
Our tour guide, a pleasant Japanese woman with a very faint voice, led us though the three tiny rooms, speaking English extremely slowly. Despite the heat, the entire tour group was crowded into a single room at time, and the tour seemed to take forever, with almost no useful information imparted at all.
The setting by Lake Nordass was lovely, and I enjoyed a snack in the very modern café in the museum.
Troldhaugen Museum Lunch
Finally, we gathered for the concert in the next-door Troldsalen concert hall. The roof is stepped down toward the lake, with bright green sod on each layer.
Troldsalen Concert Hall
Inside, the building is strikingly modern, with a lovely view of the lake behind the pianist.
Troldsalen Concert Hall with Nordass Lake View
The pianist wore a traditional Norwegian costume and played very well. Too bad someone’s hearing aid was squealing, two of the women were fanning themselves with their crinkly programs, and a man at the back was noisily clicking photographs, even though we had been asked not to.
The tour was a little disappointing, but I am glad to say I have been there. I am surprised that Holland America (or someone) had not warned us about the construction on the house ahead of time. At least I would have been prepared.
Photos © 2014 P.J. Gardner. All rights reserved.